Milan's Salone del Mobile, the design and furniture fair which closes on Sunday, has, once again, been overwhelming. The number of activities going on at once — performances, exhibitions, special projects, installations, parties, dinners and cocktail parties thrown to unveil furniture-related shop windows — is just incredible. Hidden and not-so-hidden city spots are given a sudden boost of visibility, making the whole urban fabric come alive, pulsating and, frankly, quite magic. Milan is a wonderful European capital whose understated beauty truly shines when the stiffness softens and the cold demeanour turns into shy kindness. It happens all the time with Salone: secret gardens and forgotten locations are opened for a few days, before reverting back to urban oblivion.